Living and Writing in Mexico
Archive | May, 2013
Living and Writing in Mexico – Present Day
30 May
Summertime
Looking around this past few weeks at the streets of San Miguel I realized that things haven’t changed all that much in these 52 years. I don’t mean the condition of the buildings and churches, or the condition of the streets and sidewalks. Those things have changed for the better with building restorations, widening of sidewalks, one-way streets in the barrios. I’m talking about the people. The ebb and flow of them. There are many, many more people than in the sixties, of course, but the mass exodus of the month of May continues just as before. People escaping the constant, Damnable Fireworks? Escaping the pre rainy season heat? Returning to homes in the North that finally are having decent weather for a visit?
Whatever the reason, the streets are quiet, traffic jams gone, no crowds of people in the Jardin (I could actually find a seat in the shade (what shade there is after the “gardeners” butchered all the trees). The cloudy afternoons, nature’s practice for the coming rainy season? Then there are the swarms of rug rats in uniform dumped in the centro by teachers who are out of ideas of what to do with them, and two months to go ’til vacation.
But there are no major holidays during the summer months to upset a schedule. The consideration of vacation destinations occupying our minds filling the otherwise boring, hot days and nights. Our TV programs are on reruns, the networks raking in profits from sponsors advertising to dwindling audiences. Residents trekking to Juan’s for bootleg DVDs, or in desperation to Blockbuster’s. What to do?
There are always the Balnearios. Fairly empty during the weekdays. Most parents working, unable to take the kids until the weekends. A hot water soak on a hot summer day?
Lots of younger people take advantage of the long summer nights, congregating in the Jardin in the evening to find out where the parties are. Partying ’til dawn, and sleeping through the hot days. Not a choice for the oldsters.
So walk your doggies in the mornings, draw your drapes before 11:00 A.M., shut sun filled windows ’til dark, and read a book! Preferably one of mine.
29
May
An Excerpt from my, “Walking Mexico’s Colonial Heartland”.
Life in the Streets and Plazas of Colonial Mexico
During the 16th and 17th centuries little was known about the spread of disease and the need for sanitation. The streets were open sewers full of garbage, discarded clothes, dead dogs and cats, broken crockery, and any other disgusting thing that came to hand, all thrown down from the windows of the houses on either side. The masters of the houses lived on the upper floors. The first floor was for animals and servants.
It wasn’t until the 18th century that they began to illuminate the streets and plazas at night. When forced to leave their homes in the dark, the nobles were preceded by their negro slaves carrying flaming torches. Many a poorer resident, coming home in the dark, found himself drenched with unspeakable filth thrown out of an upper story window.
The plazas were open air markets full of pig stys, chicken coops, sheep and goat pens, and cows waiting to be milked. There were slaughter houses with no regard paid to the rotting blood that spilled on the paving stones. The overwhelming numbers of stray dogs, living off the refuse, were surpassed only by the flies swarming over everything.
Everywhere balconies jutted out over the streets below. Balconies full of drying laundry; their rotting wooden windows and broken panes of glass occasionally falling on the heads of passersby.
Ground floors were frequently used as stores, and display counters were often shoved right to the front doors of the houses forcing people to stand in the street to buy, obstructing passage to the milling throngs of people on market days. These throngs were also forced to dodge and duck hanging merchandise and signs to avoid banging their heads.
Not only were the poorly paved streets full of buyers and strolling vendors, but also horses, mules, and donkeys grazing on the sidewalks or in the middle of the street, leaving steaming piles of manure in the path of unwary promenaders.
There was an abundance of beggars. The blind and the lame dragged themselves along showing their disgusting limbs and sores. And the poor, in rags, brought down not only by their miserable salaries but by vices (alcohol and gambling the most predominant), giving rise to thugs and thievery, which filled the jails with prisoners and cemeteries with corpses.
The prisoners were paraded through the streets being publicly whipped for their offenses on their way to the gallows or prison. Sent to their fate by the Sala del Crimen, el Tribunal de la Acordada, or by the Santa Inquisición.
Also in evidence on these same streets were the severe clerics in elegant robes or black capes. Franciscan friars, Dominicans, Carmelite nuns, and others in their impressive habits. The nobles and the rich promenaded on foot in ostentatious clothes, or in sedan chairs, on horseback, or in carriages accompanied by their negro slaves uniformed in colorful silks.
Processions of sisterly orders, altar societies, and other groups paraded on their way to convents, and churches carrying their colorful, silken standards or embroidered icons of saintly figures. These processions were the most popular forms of entertainment, and as such were magnificent. On high holidays the streets were filled with processions of penitents, bare to the waist, whipping themselves bloody.
Bells rang incessantly, especially during fiestas, as if each church, convent, or monastery were in competition with all of the others. The noise got so bad that laws were finally passed forbidding the ringing of bells except at appropriate times.
The town criers posed on horseback and announced by trumpets, would read aloud the edicts of the Viceroys or Alcaldes for all to hear and take note of. Barkers in fancy dress would announce the coming of the cockfights, bullfights, circuses, tumblers, etc.
Even though the atmosphere was very pious, the private lives of the city’s citizens were not. Prostitution and every other vice flourished, and consciences were eased with large donations to the Church.
Then in the 18th century the colonial cities changed morally and materially. Filthy canals were filled in, streets were paved, public bathrooms were built, water hydrants were provided for the citizens, streets were named and houses numbered, free schools were instituted, bell-ringing was further limited, and public nudity was abolished.
Streetlights were ordered to be provided by the inhabitants of the houses in their doorways and windows. By the end of the 18th and the beginning of the 19th centuries, city police were providing protection for the citizens. In 1722, the first national newspaper was published, and in 1805, the first daily emerged.
Public libraries were opened and the intellectual life of the great city began in earnest, with conversations and discussions in the first cafes that opened along the boulevards.
Beneficial institutions such as the Monte de Piedad, the national pawn broker; Hospicio de Pobres, poor houses; and the Casa de la Cuna, homes for unwed mothers were opened.
The main plaza was cleared, the canals filled in, and a statue of Carlos IV was erected, making the plaza “more artistic and beautiful”.
This was the way the colony of Nueva España lived during the 300 years of Spanish colonial rule. Showing equal respect for Saints and King, the city received its coat of arms in 1523 from Carlos V., and it was given the title of: “Muy Noble, Insigne Y Leal Ciudad” in 1549. And in 1680 by Royal seal the city council was conferred honors which were confirmed and approved on November 4, 1728 by Felipe V.
But there were periods of great agitation for political or religious reasons, great calamities, and natural phenomenon:
The execution of the Avila brothers, precursors of the Independence movement, had taken place in 1566.
Food riots in 1642 and 1692 which caused the uprising of the ..”indios, mulattos, and other castes.” and the burning of the Royal Palace and the government house.
The flood of 1629, during which masses were held on the rooftops and people went about in canoes.
The snowstorms that covered the city in a deep blanket of white in 1711, 1767, and 1813.
The expulsion of the Jesuits from Spain and its territories in 1767, the Spanish crown’s most severe action against the interests of the Church, plunged Nueva España into mourning and many protestors were flogged, imprisoned, or executed. The Bourbon Crown of Spain’s respnse to this was a proclamation:
The subjects of the Great Monarch who occupies the throne of Spain should learn once and for all that they were born to obey and remain silent, and not to think or give their opinions about high matters of government.
The Año de Hambre in 1785; and the Aurora Boreal in 1789, which filled the city with terrible fear since it had never been seen before.
Walking Mexico’s Colonial Heartland
28 MayPrint only, available at the Biblioteca gift shop, Garrison and Garrison, bookstore.
Walking Mexico’s Colonial Heartland – A full 123 pages of History – Legends – Step-by-Step Walking Tours of the world famous Spanish Colonial cities of: San Miguel de Allende; Guanajuato; Querétaro; and the history of Mineral de Pozos, the Ghost Town. These are 450 + year old cities protected and preserved in the Spanish Colonial style of the XVII and XVIII centuries. They are living, breathing cities, full of life and culture, but mysteriously silent about their history and legends. With this book you will appreciate fully your visit to them. WT-101 – $10.00 plus $12.95 International S&H. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com.
Catalog – Papelandia Publishing
27 May
Papelandia Publishing Catalog
Gringo Guides
Download Your copy on Amazon.com; Barnes and Noble.com; Kobo.com; and soon on Google Play. Search William J. Conaway.
A Gringo Guide to Living in San Miguel de Allende – A complete 150 page, perfect bound book a guide, and advice for living and enjoying San Miguel de Allende as a resident or a visitor. A fun filled, Cartoon illustrated day-to-day guide with stories chronicalling the authors «Early Years» in San Miguel. Even long-term residents are guaranteed to find information they never knew before, supplied by a 50+ year Bilingual/Bicultural American resident of San Miguel. GG-101 – $20.00 plus $12.95 International S&H. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com.
…to Mexican History – A 354 page, complete History of Mexico with historic pictures. An easy read to learn the incredible history of the Republic from the Conquest until Today. The places, events, and the characters that played out their roles in one of the bloodiest histories ever recorded. Interspersed throughout are accounts of events taking place in the U.S. and the rest of the world simultaneously to give one a sense of the time. GG-103 – $24.95 plus $19.95 International S&H. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com at a considerable discount.
…to the Mexican Revolution – A 56 page, coffee table style book with the complete, bloody history of the Mexican Revolution 1910-1921, with lots of great historic pictures. GG-105 – $16.95 Plus $6.95 International Shipping & Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
…to the Cristero Rebellion – A twenty-eight page book with the complete forgotten history of the Rebellion against the Calles Administration 1926-1930 in which the Pope closed the Mexican churches, and the government waged modern warfare against their own people over religious differences. hundreds of thousands of people died and a half million people migrated to the U.S. GG-106 $14.50 Plus $6.95 Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
…to Witchcraft – A 30 page booklet about the practice of witchcraft in Mexico now and in the past. Implements, herbs, and spells used in Mexican witchcraft told by a 50 year resident. GG-108 $7.95 Plus $2.95 International S&P. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount (Includes the following book in the same download)
…to Pulque, Mescal, and Tequila – A 30 Page booklet about these spirits from production to imbibing. The History surrounding the discovery and modern production. GG-109 $7.95 Plus $2.95 International Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com at a discount. (Includes the previous book in the same download)
…to a Bullfight, a Mexican Rodeo, and a Cock Fight – A twenty eight page book that serves as your personal guide to these Mexican sports events. Describing the tradition, the culture, and the mechanics of the events to promote understanding of them. GG-107 $14.50 Plus $6.95 International Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
…to a Mexican Kitchen – A full 200 pages of time honored, traditional Mexican Recipes, with food and food preparation glossaries. Hundreds of Full-Color pictures, and it’s spiral bound for the cook’s convenience. The book Includes Party Snacks, Gala Banquets, and Mexican Adult Beverages too. GG-102 – $24.95 plus $18.95 International S&H. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, for a considerable discount.
…to: Salsas y Chilies – A 28 page booklet with everything you should know about chilies, and naming the most popular Mexican variaties. Including how to prepare them. Seventeen delicious recipes for Salsa with full-color pictures. GG-102-A – $7.95 plus $2.95 International Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com.
...to: Mexican Beverages – A 28 page booklet to Non-alcoholic, and alcoholic beverages alike. Recipes from teas; coffee; hot chocolate; punches; egg nog; cold thirst quenching, cooling drinks and fruit ades to 27 different, popular, alcoholic ones. GG-102-B – $7.95 Plus $2.95 International Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com.
…to Soups and Salads – A 28 page booklet wth 10 delicious recipes for popular Mexican soups and 11 scrumptious Mexican recipes for salads including full-color pictures. GG-102-C – $7.95 Plus $2.95 Internat. Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com.
“A Gringo Guide to Mexican Desserts,” print only, available at the Biblioteca gift shop, Garrison and Garrison, and La Deriva bookstores.
…to Mexican Desserts – A 24 page booklet with 20 fabulous recipes for some of the most popular and delicious recipes of Mexican desserts. GG-102-D – $7.95 Plus $2.95 International Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for $9.99
...to Throwing a Mexican Fiesta – A 24 page booklet with 5 delicious Mexican recipes for appetizers, botanas; 11 great recipes for Mexican dips and spreads; and 8 wonderful, time-saving recipes for Mexican microwaves treats. GG-102-E $7.95 Plus $2.95 International Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com.
Walking Tours
Walking Mexico’s Colonial Heartland – A full 123 pages of History – Legends – Step-by-Step Walking Tours of the world famous Spanish Colonial cities of: San Miguel de Allende; Guanajuato; Querétaro; and the history of Mineral de Pozos, the Ghost Town. These are 450 + year old cities protected and preserved in the Spanish Colonial style of the XVII and XVIII centuries. They are living, breathing cities, full of life and culture, but mysteriously silent about their history and legends. With this book you will appreciate fully your visit to them. WT-101 – $10.00 plus $12.95 International S&H. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com.
Walking Tours of San Miguel de Allende – A 30 page book of the History, and Step-by-Step instructions for touring this 460 year old Spanish Colonial city, a National Monument. The booklet has a four-color, slick cover suitable for saving as a souvenier, and includes lots full-color pictures. WT-102 – $16.50 Plus $6.95 International Shipping & Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
San Miguel’s History – A twenty-four page booklet of the history of San Miguel de Allende from the settle-ment through the War for Independence with historic pictures. WT-101-A – $7.95 Plus $2.95 International Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com.
…of Guanajuato – A 30 page book of the History, Legends, and Step-by-Step instructions for touring this 460+ year old Spanish Colonial city. The legends are authentic, and have been handed down generation after generation.The booklet has lots of historic and full color pictures, and is suitable for saving as a souvenier. WT-103 – $16.50 Plus $6.95 International Shipping & Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
…of Santiago de Querétaro – A 30 page book of the History, and Step-by-Step instructions for touring this 460+ year old Spanish Colonial city. The booklet has lots of historic and full color pictures, and is suitable for saving as a souvenier. WT-104 – $14.50 Plus $6.95 Int. Shipping & Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a big discount.
…of Morelia: The City of Music – A 30 page book of the History, and Step-by-Step instructions for touring this 460+ year old Spanish Colonial city. The booklet has lots of historic and full color pictures, and is suitable for saving as a souvenier. WT-105 – $14.50 Plus $6.95 International Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble at a discount.
Download all eight “Walking Tours,” books from Amazon.com; Barnes and Noble.com; or Kobo.com. Search William J. Conaway
…of Puebla de Los Angeles – A 30 page book of the History, Legends, and Step-by-Step instructions for touring this 460+ year old Spanish Colonial city. The legends are authentic, and have been handed down generation after generation.The booklet has lots of historic and full color pictures, and is suitable for saving as a souvenier. WT-106 $14.50 Plus $6.95 Int. Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
…of Taxco de Alarcon – A 30 page book of the History, Legends, and Step-by-Step instructions for touring this 460+ year old Spanish Colonial city. The legends are authentic, and have been handed down generation after generation.The booklet has lots of historic and full color pictures, and is suitable for saving as a souvenier. WT-107 – $14.50 Plus $6.95 Intnational Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
…of San Luis Potosí – A 30 page book of the History, and Step-by-Step instructions for touring this 460+ year old Spanish Colonial city. The booklet has lots of full color pictures, and is suitable for saving as a souvenier. WT-108 – $14.50 Plus $6.95 Intnational Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
…of Zacatecas – A 30 page book of the History, Legends, and Step-by-Step instructions for touring this 460+ year old Spanish Colonial city. The legends are authentic, and have been handed down generation after generation.The booklet has lots of historic and full color pictures, and is suitable for saving as a souvenier. WT-109 – $14.50 Plus $6.95 International Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
Driving Adventures:
Download all five “Driving Adventure” books from Amazon.com; Barnes and Noble.com; or Kobo.com. Search William J. Conaway.
Day Trips From San Miguel – A 56 page coffee table style guidebook to easy one-day trips with historic and full-color pictures. Visit Acambaro, Guanajuato’s oldest city; Dolores Hidalgo, the Fountain of the Independece movement, La Luz, Guanajuato’s Other Ghost Town; Cerro de San Pedro, San Luis Potosí’s Ghost Town, and Jaral de Berrio, the ruins of an historic Hacienda. DA – 102 – $16.95 Plus $7.95 International Shipping & Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
…Hidalgo, and the Ancient city of Teotihuacan – A 56 page coffe table style guidebook with the history of the State, and instructions for driving around the state of Hidalgo with stops in: Huichapan, Alfajayucan, Zimápan, Ixmiquilpan, Tula de Allende, Teotihuacán, Pachuca, Mineral del Chico, Real del Monte, Atotonilco El Grande, Metztitlan, Molongo de Escamilla, Tlahuitepa, Huazalingo, and Huejutla de Reyes. with lots of full-color pictures. DA – 104 – $16.95 Plus $7.95 International Shipping & Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a big discount.
…Mexico’s Colonial Ghost Towns – A 56 page coffee table style guidebook of the history and legends of: Mineral de Pozos, Gto.; Mineral La Luz, Gto.; Real de Catorce, San Luis Potosí; Cerro de San Pedro, San Luis Potosí. This book contains lots of historic and full-color pictures of these XVI, XVII, and XVIII century Silver and Gold mining cities. DA – 101 – $16.95 Plus $7.95 International Shipping & Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a big discount.
…Michoacán, Touring the Tarascan Empire – A 56 page coffe table style guidebook with the history, and instructions for driving the state of Michoacán with stops in: Ihuatzio, Tzintzuntzan, Santa Clara del Cobre, Pátzcuaro, Janitzio, Zrahuén, Santiago Tingambato, Uruapan, Paricutín, and Paracho with lots of historic and full-color pictures. DA – 103 – $16.95 Plus $7.95 International Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a big discount.
…in Mexico’s Huasteca – A 56 page coffee table guide book with a complete driving tour of the Adventure and Ecotourism Paradise that is the Huasteca area of Mexico. Includes areas in the Mexican states of: Tamaulipas, San Luis Potosí, Querétaro, Hidalgo, Puebla, and Veracruz. Includes information on White water Rafting, Kayaking, Mountain Biking, Rock Climbing, Swimming, Spelunking, Hunting, Fishing, Hiking, and Camping. With lots of historic and full-color pictures. DA – 105 – $16.95 Plus $7.95 International Shipping & Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
Adventure and Ecotourism
Download all four “Adventure and Ecotourism” books from Amazon.com; Barnes and Noble.com; or Kobo.com. Search William J. Conaway.
…in the Copper Canyon – A 38 page coffee table style guide book with the history, accomodations, and tours of the entire Copper Canyon System located in the State of Chihuahua. Lots of full-color pictures and Driving Adventures down into the depths of the Urique and Batopilas Canyons. AE – 105 – $16.50 Plus $7.95 International Shipping & Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Barnes and Noble.com a considerable discount.
…with Mexico’s Glittering Monarchs – A 38 page coffee table style guide book with the Complete story on the migrating Monarch butterflies. Where they are, how to get to them, and how they were found. A Driving Adventure loaded with full-color, full-page pictures. AE – 106 – $16.50 Plus $7.95 Int. S&H. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a big discount.
…in San Miguel de Allende – A 36 page coffee table style guide book with the Complete possibilities for Adventure and Ecotourism sites to visit while you’re in San Miguel de Allende with lots of full-color pictures. Includes Horseback riding, ATV Rentals, Hot Air Baloon rides, Mountain bike tours, hiking tours, touring the Botanical Gardens , and the Cañada de La Virgen pyramid. AE – 107 $16.50 Plus $7.95 International Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
…in Edward James’ Surrealistic Garden, Las Pozas, Xilitla – A 28 page coffee table style guidebook of the Surrealist Sculpture garden of Edward James with lots of full-color pictures and a map of the complete site. AE – 101 $16.50 Plus $7.95 International Shipping and Handling. Order by email: wjconaway@yahoo.com, or download from Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com for a considerable discount.
All of these books are available in the San Miguel de Allende Library Gift Shop, the Casa de Papel Card Shop, Garrison & Garrison bookstore, La Deriva bookstore, and for downloads Amazon.com and Barnes and Noble.com. Follow the author on Twitter @williamjconaway, and Facebook/williamjconaway. Join and comment with him online at: http://www.williamjconaway.com
Guanajuato: Guía de Paseos por sus Calles
25 May
Impreso en papel, Disponible en La Tiendita de la Biblioteca Publica y en Libreria La Deriva, y Fabrica La Aurora
“Guanajuato: Guía de Paseos por sus Calles” Impreso en papel, Disponible en La Tiendita de la Biblioteca Publica y en Libreria La Deriva en Fabrica La Aurora
Paseo por Las Calles de Dolores Hidalgo
24 May
“Paseo por Las Calles de Dolores Hidalgo” Impreso en papel, Disponible en La Tiendita de la Biblioteca Publica y en Libreria La Deriva en Fabrica La Aurora
23
May
Impreso en papel, Disponible en La Tiendita de la Biblioteca Publica y en Libreria La Deriva, y Fabrica La Aurora
Guía de Paseos por San Miguel
22 May
Disponible impreso en papel, La Tiendita de la Biblioteca Publica y en Libreria la Deriva, Fabrica La Aurora
San Miguel’s History
21 May
Print only, available at the Biblioteca gift shop, Garrison and Garrison, and La Deriva bookstores.
San Miguel’s History – A twenty-four page booklet of the history of San Miguel de Allende from the settlement through the War for Independence with historic pictures. Print only, available at the Biblioteca gift shop, Garrison and Garrison, and La Deriva bookstores.
Living and Writing in Mexico 