Tag Archives: Valladolid

Walking Tours of Morelia, the City of Music

20 Mar
Download to your phone, tablet, laptop on Amazon.com, Amazon.com.mx; Barnes and Noble.com; Kobo.com (now includes sony Readers) and on Google Play. Search William J. Conaway.

Download to your phone, tablet, laptop on Amazon.com, Amazon.com.mx; Barnes and Noble.com; Kobo.com (now includes sony Readers) and on Google Play. Search William J. Conaway.

History and Walking Tours of Morelia, the City of Music
Copyright William J. Conaway, 1999, Derechos Reservados

Morelia’s love for Order and Vast Spaces bears the Stamp of the Renaissance Spirit
Morelia, the capital of the State of Michoacán, known, during the Spanish Colonial period, as Valladolid is located in the Guayangareo valley at 6,368 feet above sea level. It’s 195 miles west of Mexico City and 228 miles Southeast of Guadalajara. Morelia has a population of approximately 500,000 people at this writing, an important intellectual and artistic center for the entire region.

The Guayangareo valley was swamp land and there was a constant battle against malaria of its inhabitants until finally in 1939, the Contzio dam was built and the swampland drained.

The ancient volcano of Quinceo is responsible for the configuration of the valley and the city is surrounded by the mountains of Santiaguito, Santa María de la Asunción, and a towering wall of pink cantera stone with which much of the cities buildings were adorned.

Fray Juan de San Miguel is credited for the discovery of the valley for the Spaniards. He erected a chapel, on May 18, 1531, dedicated to San Francisco which initiated the construction of Valladolid. (The chapel became the Church and Convent of San Francisco that we will see later.)

The lay-out of the city was designed by the master mason, Juan Ponce in 1543. The designation as a city and the coat of arms came from Carlos V, in 1545 and 1553 respectively. It remained a relatively small city until the civil powers and the Episcopal See were moved there from Pátzcuaro in 1579.

The first settlers were Luis Dávila, of Seville; Juan Pantoja and Domingo de Medina, of Medellín; Luis Calero, of Palos de Moguer; Pedro Moreno and Gregorio de Aviña, of Galicia; Juan Alvarado, of Bandajoz; and Francisco Moreno, of Aragón, Spain.

Their characteristic regionalism was forgotten in the New World and these Spanish families gave birth to Criollos, sons and daughters born in Nueva España. One particular encomendero of Michoacán, Juan Villaseñor Orozco, founded the families of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla (father of México) and Agustín Iturbide (first emperor of México).

The Spaniards followed the ancient Indian trails through the region known as Mil Cumbres, Thousand Pinacles, 315 kilometers to get there. This forested, mountainous area is characteristic of much of the State. On this modern day highway that follows the original route you will see valleys that range from cold, to warm, to hot lands and back again. This difficult route kept Morelia isolated from the rest of the country for much of its history with a few notable exceptions.

The first Viceroy, Vice-King, Don Antonio Mendoza, sent from Spain was amazed at the arts and crafts of the Indian inhabitants of Michoacán. The crucifixes made of reeds and the gold filigreed lacquered trays, bowls, and plates became famous all over Europe. Mendoza also met with the chiefs who were adorned with robes decorated with hummingbird feathers, obsidian or turquoise earrings, and tiaras of gold or silver. So colorful and beautiful were they and their women that Mendoza ordered a study be written of their culture, rites, and religion, “Relación de las Ceremonias y Ritos y Población de los Indios de la Provincia de Mechuacán.”

The early years of Valladolid belong to the clergy, there were so many churches and convents (in 1738 there were 40 convents). The ever-present sound of bells called the people to prayer, announced grief, or joy.

The Early Years – Becoming a Writer

26 Jan

San Miguel med

The Early Years – Becoming a Writer

Writing the Walking Tour Series
When I began writing the Walking Tour Series, in 1977, it wasn’t supposed to be a series. I just began wiring aout San Miguel. I was here, the research material readily available, and so it began. I had no idea what that first book would lead to, I just did it.
The idea wasn’t mine to begin with. My friend Peyton Breckinridge came up with the idea first, but he couldn’t remain sober long enough to do the work so I took it up. The research required delving into history books written in Spanish, ages ago, and if you’ve ever read a Spanish language book you know how frustrating it is. They begin in the middle, wander around the subject, viewing it from every angle, return to the beginning, and sometime later get to the point. Its madening. But there it is.
The first book contained no pictures except a cut and paste one, and I mean I cut out the picture, pasted it onto the master page, and used that to photo copy the book, fold in half and staple. that was it. A twenty-four page, 5.5″ X 8.5″ book (U.S. post office classifies a book as having 24 pages) with a black and white cover of plain paper that sold for the equivalent of $7.00 U.S.
It was a success! And it began my treking around Mexico, the nearest colonial cities first, doing the necessary research, plotting out the walking tour parts, and later taking pictures, with one of the first cheap, HP digital cameras, to include in the books.
Guanajuato medGuanajuato was my second book since it was close by, and my daughter lived there. It took several trips to find out the secrets of the place. (There are no public libraries there, only a few private ones that are open to the public, but you have to tell them which book you’d like to see. As if I knew. And you have to do your work right there. They don’t lend.) That was to set the trend for all of the rest of the books. I had to do the research here in San Miguel with what I could find in our public library, and occasionally order Spanish language books (all subsidized by the various University presses).
Now, the books number eight. I’ve found that the farther from San Miguel they are, the slower they sell, so I’ve stopped doing them, and turned instead to the “Adventure and Ecotourism,” and the “Driving Adventures” books.

Living smallThe first books that I had written, “Mexican Kitchen, and “Living in San Miguel,” became the first in the Gringo Guide series. I added the Bullfight book, and began peddling them outside the local bullring. From that experience I learned not to expose myself to the public , and changed the book to include Charreadas, and Cock fights, “A Gringo Guide To: A Bullfight, A Mexican Rodeo, and a Cockfight.”
About that time an old friend, William Stephensen, who had driven down to San Miguel from California, in an old Mazda, and while staying with us had car trouble. Not able to find the parts the car needed here in Mexico he signed the car over to me and flew back to California. I was able to have the water pump rebuilt in Celaya in just a few days, and I had just what I needed. Transportation to Morelia to finish the Walking Tour book I had begun years before, and from there to see the Monarch butterfly sanctuaries ..and the Adventure and Ecotourism series began, and now consist of four titles.
Mexican History MediumMy uncle, Charlie Carr, bought several of my books, and convinced me to write the complete history of Mexico. A project that took several years to complete in between my other various books.
While I worked on the History, I had an opportunity to go to the Huasteca. My brother and a friend of his, on a visit to San Miguel, offered to pay for a short trip, to wherever…. I had always been interested in the Huasteca area of Mexico. It sounded so mysterious…. So off we went, and had one of the biggest adventures of our lives. The result, “A Driving Adventure in the Mexican huasteca.” And that began another series “Driving Adventures,” that now consists of six titles.
Huasteca smallAnd so it goes. I have no idea what’s next….

Walking Tours of Morelia – An Excerpt

12 Jan

 

Download all eight "Walking Tour" books from amazon.com; Barnes and Noble.com; or Kobo.com.

Download all eight “Walking Tour” books from amazon.com; Barnes and Noble.com; or Kobo.com.

An Excerpt from my, “Walking Tours of Morelia: the City of Music:

History and Walking Tours of Morelia, the City of Music
Copyright William J. Conaway, 1999, Derechos Reservados

Morelia’s love for Order and Vast Spaces bears the Stamp of the Renaissance Spirit
Morelia, the capital of the State of Michoacán, known, during the Spanish Colonial period, as Valladolid is located in the Guayangareo valley at 6,368 feet above sea level. It’s 195 miles west of Mexico City and 228 miles Southeast of Guadalajara. Morelia has a population of approximately 500,000 people at this writing, an important intellectual and artistic center for the entire region.

The Guayangareo valley was swamp land and there was a constant battle against malaria of its inhabitants until finally in 1939, the Contzio dam was built and the swampland drained.

The ancient volcano of Quinceo is responsible for the configuration of the valley and the city is surrounded by the mountains of Santiaguito, Santa María de la Asunción, and a towering wall of pink cantera stone with which much of the cities buildings were adorned.

Fray Juan de San Miguel is credited for the discovery of the valley for the Spaniards. He erected a chapel, on May 18, 1531, dedicated to San Francisco which initiated the construction of Valladolid. (The chapel became the Church and Convent of San Francisco that we will see later.)

The lay-out of the city was designed by the master mason, Juan Ponce in 1543. The designation as a city and the coat of arms came from Carlos V, in 1545 and 1553 respectively. It remained a relatively small city until the civil powers and the Episcopal See were moved there from Pátzcuaro in 1579.

The first settlers were Luis Dávila, of Seville; Juan Pantoja and Domingo de Medina, of Medellín; Luis Calero, of Palos de Moguer; Pedro Moreno and Gregorio de Aviña, of Galicia; Juan Alvarado, of Bandajoz; and Francisco Moreno, of Aragón, Spain.

Their characteristic regionalism was forgotten in the New World and these Spanish families gave birth to Criollos, sons and daughters born in Nueva España. One particular encomendero of Michoacán, Juan Villaseñor Orozco, founded the families of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla (father of México) and Agustín Iturbide (first emperor of México).

The Spaniards followed the ancient Indian trails through the region known as Mil Cumbres, Thousand Pinacles, 315 kilometers to get there. This forested, mountainous area is characteristic of much of the State. On this modern day highway that follows the original route you will see valleys that range from cold, to warm, to hot lands and back again. This difficult route kept Morelia isolated from the rest of the country for much of its history with a few notable exceptions.

The first Viceroy, Vice-King, Don Antonio Mendoza, sent from Spain was amazed at the arts and crafts of the Indian inhabitants of Michoacán. The crucifixes made of reeds and the gold filigreed lacquered trays, bowls, and plates became famous all over Europe. Mendoza also met with the chiefs who were adorned with robes decorated with hummingbird feathers, obsidian or turquoise earrings, and tiaras of gold or silver. So colorful and beautiful were they and their women that Mendoza ordered a study be written of their culture, rites, and religion, “Relación de las Ceremonias y Ritos y Población de los Indios de la Provincia de Mechuacán.”

The early years of Valladolid belong to the clergy, there were so many churches and convents (in 1738 there were 40 convents). The ever-present sound of bells called the people to prayer, announced grief, or joy.